A practical guide for the new(ish) or beginner gardener who wants an easy-to-grow, low-stress garden next spring, summer, and fall!
Winter is only a pause on the outdoor side of gardening, at least in New England and other parts of the Northern U.S. — but that means it’s time for us to take advantage of the season.
While the cold days, snow, and darkness keep the soil (seemingly) quiet, you may find yourself with uninterrupted time to daydream, plan, and prepare for a season of rebirth as you enter into your own version of hibernation.
The planning and work you do in winter makes spring and summer easier, more fun, and far more successful. This guide walks you through everything a beginner gardener needs to do during the darkest of days — from choosing easy-to-grow plants to a week-by-week prep timeline, seed-starting basics, common problems and fixes, and simple design ideas for small spaces.
Why does winter planning matter?
If you’re a new or beginner gardener, it’s tempting to wait until the first inklings of spring on a sunny, warm(er) day to think about your garden. That’s when everyone else starts feeling the itch, too — which means potential seed shortages, long lines, and rushed decisions. Planning in winter gives you time to:
- Daydream
- Create a small, achievable garden plan
- Research easy-to-grow varieties that match your garden space and lifestyle.
- Order seeds and supplies before popular varieties sell out.
- Start seeds indoors on the correct schedule so transplants are strong.
- Avoid overwhelm when the busy season arrives.
A little prep now saves a lot of frustration later.
Step 1 — Daydream (one of the best parts!): Decide what you want your garden to be
First, ask yourself:
-
Do I want mostly vegetables, herbs, flowers, or a mix?
-
How much time will I realistically spend each week? (15–30 minutes daily vs several hours on weekends)
-
How much space do I have, and where will I put my garden?
-
Do I want an easy, low-maintenance patch or a high-yield vegetable plot?
-
What is my sun exposure? Full sun (6+ hours), part sun (3–6 hours), or shade?
If you're brand new to gardening, my advice is to start small. A single raised bed (4×8 ft), a row of patio pots, or even one large container with herbs will give you quick wins and build your confidence.
Step 2 — Site and soil basics
You don’t need a soil science degree to get good results. Do some basic observation of your yard this winter.
Simple Site Observation
-
Observe the Sun: Over a couple of days, note which spots get bright sun, what shade plants or large structures are in your space, and notice the direction of the sunrise and sunset. Notice the typical direction of the wind, which may have an impact on tall or flowering plants.
In my yard, for example, my garden sits on the northeast corner of the yard with very little shade. I have full sun on all of my raised beds, except for those closest to the border of lilacs in the early hours of the day. This shadier spot is typically where I'll plant my lettuces and plants who need some relief from the heat, since it is typically the coolest spot in my raised bed garden and has some protection from the lilacs. By about 4pm in the summer, the sun is setting on the opposite corner behind my house, shading the majority of the raised beds. All in all, my garden plot gets about 7 hours of full sun every day in the summer months.
This exercise will give you a basic idea of where the sun hits your space so you can decide on a plot or planter location for the spring. -
Drainage test: This may not be possible in the winter with snow and ice. Look for any sloping areas; think about where there is pooling and mud once snow starts to melt. When it rains in the warmer seasons, where do you notice poor drainage or pooling?
-
Water access: Make sure beds are close to a hose or that you plan for a watering can or rain barrel. Or, make sure you can lug a watering can however far you need to!
Most easy-to-grow vegetables and many flowers prefer loose, well-draining soil enriched with organic matter. In winter, order compost or bagged soil amendments and plan to mix them into beds in early spring.
Interested in learning about composting? See our guide!
Step 3 — Pick easy-to-grow plants
For your first season, choose plants that are forgiving and quick to reward you. Personally, my arch-nemesis of the plant world is ranunculus; I find it endlessly challenging and frustrating and disappointing... but I keep trying (because... pretty).
Vegetables that are great for new gardeners
-
Lettuce and mixed salad greens — cut-and-come-again varieties give multiple harvests. No need to start indoors, these seeds can go right into the ground once the soil is workable. They love cooler weather and can be started early to mid-spring here in New England!
-
Swiss chard — tough, attractive, and harvests for months. Similar to lettuce and different types of mixed greens - throw the seeds right into the ground when it's cooler in the spring and the ground is workable. A light frost won't kill these guys, but covering them can protect them when they're young.
-
Snap peas — early crops and easy trellising. Another cool-weather, easy to grow option that you can just direct-sow.
-
Bush beans — plant when the soil is warm and enjoy simple harvesting. Another direct-sow seed!
-
Cucumbers - You'll want to start these guys indoors and transplant outside. I've always had great luck and a healthy cuke harvest. 2025 was probably my worst year over the last 5 years, and I still ended up with more cucumbers than I could reasonably eat.
- Tomatoes - Maybe not "beginner", because they do take a little more effort as they get larger, but there is nothing better than a fresh tomato. Try it, why not?
Herbs and Flowers that are easy to grow for beginner gardeners:
-
Mint — Try putting multiple varieties in one large planter (I've put spearmint, chocolate mint, and peppermint all together. They all look slightly different from one another, making a nice looking variety, and it's fun to have the different scents and flavors. Mint is extremely easy to grow from seed, and requires very little attention, but always plant in pots (it spreads aggressively and can take over a space). Great for a balcony and for fresh ingredients for cocktails and mocktails all summer.
-
Zinnias — So easy to grow; I typically just chuck a bunch of seeds into a raised bed, spread them around to barely cover in soil, and water until established. They are resilient and cheerful. Some people are adamant about staking them, but I never do. I plant A LOT of them very densely, and they tend to hold up well, even after a heavy rain or wind (both of which are abundant where I live). They bloom for a long time, especially if you deadhead (wait, what is "deadheading?") throughout the season. They last all the way through fall and the first heavy frost. They can even tolerate some light frost mornings.
Both mint and zinnia don't need any early starts. Throw the seeds right into pot (for mint) or a plot (for zinnias) when the soil is workable, water regularly if necessary, and watch the magic of nature.
If you're feeling nervous or hesitant, start with 3–5 crops. Build your confidence and then add to your collection!
Step 4 — What to do and when: Winter to Spring
This timeline is region-neutral; adjust dates to your local last frost. Not sure when your last frost might be? Check here.
December–January: dreaming & planning
-
Map your space and do the sun observation.
-
Sketch a simple bed layout (what goes where). If you're feeling a little bit more confident or up to the task of experimenting, think about companion planting. I also mostly disregard spacing suggestions and plant densely, alternating between herbs, flowers, and veggies in each designated space.
-
Make a short plant list of easy-to-grow varieties and order seeds early.
February: order supplies + prep
-
Buy seed-starting trays if you plan to start some seeds indoors, seed-starting mix, labels, and a simple light setup if you need it. If you want to label your plants using the plastic plant markers, use paint pens or another oil-based pen. Permanent marker will wash right off. These pens have been tested by other gardeners; I have yet to try them!
-
Reserve or order compost for a raised garden bed, if you need to. If creating a plot directly in the ground, think about amending the soil somewhat - based on the type of soil in your yard.
Interested in starting composting? Check out our Composting 101 Guide -
Read the seed packet sow dates and mark your calendar.
- Ensure you know which growing zone you live in! This makes a difference when you can or can't start seeds or transplant them outdoors. Check your zone here.
Late February–March: start seeds indoors (if needed)
-
Start cool-season crops indoors if you choose to, (but you don't need to). You could also use a cold frame outdoors if you have one, but to me this is not a beginner step, and can just add expense.
- I often make the mistake of starting seeds indoors too early. I live in growing zone 5a and typically can't get most starter plants in the ground until June. Up until then, there is no guarantee a late frost won't kill them.
-
Learn to harden off (moving them outdoors gradually) seedlings in April or May, depending on where you live and your growing zone.
April–May: transplant and sow outdoors (grow zone dependent!)
-
Direct sow early greens according to your frost date.
-
Transplant hardened-off seedlings after your local last frost.
Tip for new gardeners: Google “last frost date + [your town/zip code]” and use that as the anchor for your seed-starting schedule.
Step 5 — Seed-starting basics
Starting some seeds indoors can give you a head start and ensure you have a healthy little crop ready to go outside. Here’s the no-nonsense routine.
Supplies you’ll need
-
Seed trays, cow pots/peat pots, or try soil blocking
-
Seed-starting potting mix (lighter than garden soil)
-
Grow lights or a sunny south-facing window
-
Labels and a permanent marker
-
Spray bottle for gentle watering
- A fan to keep plants aerated and to help with strengthening stems as they grow (note: requires closer monitoring of moisture, will definitely need to water more frequently!)
How to start seeds
-
Fill trays with seed-starting mix and press a small divot where each seed goes.
-
Plant seeds at depth shown on the packet.
-
Keep the mix consistently moist but not waterlogged — using a spray bottle helps, or something I'll add water to the bottom of the tray (without pouring directly onto the seeds) to let the pods absorb the water without unintentionally over-watering.
-
Provide light consistently to promote germination, as soon as seedlings emerge; rotate trays to avoid leaning. You could get fancier by adding a timer to your light set up! Or, you'll just have to remember to turn on and off. Early in the process of germination, the seeds can use as much light as you can give them.
-
When seedlings have several true leaves, first thin out the plants as you may have dropped 2-3 seeds per pod (totally fine), and then transplant into larger pots. Start hardening off outdoors a week before planting.
- To harden off seeds slowly, first place them outside in a protected area. Putting them directly into the sun for a long period can scorch their sensitive new leaves. Wind can also cause some irreparable damage. I will often first place my trays onto a shaded sidewalk between my house and garage. As it gradually starts to warm up, you can keep your plants outdoors but covered to protect them from frost or extreme temperature fluctuations. I start moving mine into the garage sometime in early May here in zone 5a.
Seed-starting is a skill — your first tray may not be perfect, and that’s fine. You’ll learn quickly. I often re-do my trays, usually because I get excited for spring and start my seeds way too early and they end up leggy and weak - I'm always hopeful they'll make it.
And I have definitely scorched a few trays of sensitive tomato plants by trying to harden them off too early or too quickly. Mistakes will happen and it's typically not too late to start over.
Gardening is a forever experiment. No harm in restarting your seeds and trying again!
Step 6 — Small-space design ideas that work
If you’re a beginner gardener with limited space, these options are (usually) foolproof.
-
Container garden: One large pot with a focal plant and a ring of herbs around it.
-
Vertical gardening: Use a simple trellis for peas and pole beans; add vining nasturtiums for color and as a companion plant.
-
Square-foot gardening: Divide a raised bed into small squares to simplify planning and rotation.
Initially, design your layout for simplicity.
Problems you may encounter (and some potential solutions)
Expect pests, legginess, and the occasional loss. Here are the common issues and simple remedies.
-
Seedlings are leggy (tall and weak): Move them to brighter light or closer to grow lights. Use a fan to encourage strengthening the stems.
-
Damping-off (seedlings collapse): Reduce moisture, improve air circulation, and use sterile seed-starting mix.
-
Early insect damage: Use floating row covers for young plants, hand-pick pests off your plants (a favorite past time is flicking the hell out of a Japanese beetle or 10). I also swear by companion planting - marigolds, basil, and other strong-smelling plants can sometimes naturally deter pests and predators.
Final encouragement for the new gardener
Gardening is not a test — it’s an ongoing experiment. You’ll have seasons that feel perfect and ones that teach you the most. As a beginner gardener, set small goals: pick a manageable space, choose a handful of easy-to-grow plants, and schedule short prep sessions this winter. When spring arrives, you’ll be ready — and your first harvest will feel deliciously earned.